Semana Santa and Surf Lessons!



Procession during Semana Santa

In many Latin American and European countries, the week before Easter, called Samana Santa (Holy Week) is often more celebrated than Easter day itself.  This was definitely the case in Peru!  Starting with the Sunday before at Palm Sunday Mass, the priest described parade after parade that would occur in the upcoming week.  Thursday and Friday before Easter are considered National Holidays, so most businesses were shut down as the people flocked to the coastal towns to enjoy the beautiful sunny weather and fabulous festivals.  The most interesting part, however, is that on Easter Sunday itself, most businesses opened back up and resumed life as usual! 

The parades were amazing to see, with gorgeous displays of the Crucifix, huge marching bands, incense, and people following the procession as they walked for miles.  One specific procession walked over 15 miles, from one end of Trujillo to the other.  On Easter Sunday, my family and I went to the Cathedral in Trujillo for mass.  40 minutes later, the mass was over (if you have EVER been to a Catholic holiday mass, or any mass for that matter, you will know this is not normal!) and life continued as any other normal day.  It was a change from the celebrations that I am used to! 


Sunset in Huanchaco, Peru

Since Amber was able to get the Thursday and Friday before Easter off of work, we went to Huanchaco, a town 25 minutes by car from Trujillo.  It is well known to be a surfer's paradise.  Amber has recently become an avid surfer, so she convinced myself and her friend Kathleen to take surfing lessons.  One more fabulous thing about Peru:  it's affordable, if not downright cheap.  A two-hour surfboard lesson, wetsuit and surfboard rental coast only s/35, or about $12.  After learning, in Spanish, that I am a "goofy" (a universal word!) and how to balance on the board on land (not as easy as it sounds when the instructor is pushing you back and forth to mimic waves!) we headed out into the ocean!  First wave came... and I caught it!  Second wave came.... success again!  By the third wave, I thought I was a pro!  It was 4th through 35th waves that got a little ugly.  :)  Let's just make this fact known:  Surfing IS NOT as easy as it looks.  However, equally as true:  Surfing IS as fun as it looks!  Although I swallowed gallons of delicious sea water and attracted many stares as a ridiculously horrible Gringa surfer, it was a fabulous first experience surfing!  Next weekend we are going to another well-known surfing destination in Peru, so hopefully I can try it again!



Picarones in Peru

After a fun day of surfing, we were starving.  Peruvian street food deserves an entire blog post of it's own, so I won't go into too much detail.  Amber, Kathleen and I shared some amazing Peruvian delicacies called Picarones.  Picarones are essentially deep fried dough made from squash and sweet potato. It is served in a doughnut form and covered with a syrup made from chancaca (solidified molasses- way yummier than it sounds).  If you aren't drooling, you should be.  They are perfectly brown and crisp on the outside and soft and warm on the inside.  Topped with the sweet sauce, you forget that you are on earth for a few moments and drown in deliciousness.  Mmm... A perfect end to a semi-successful day at the beach!

Trujillo, Peru: Combi rides and one sweaty Gringa!

After 10 long days of unforgettable adventures, we ventured to the Northern coast of Peru. It is here, in Trujillo, that my sister lives and volunteers as a physical therapist. We all felt immediate relief to be staying somewhere for more than a couple of days! Traveling is exhausting, and living out of a suitcase can get very smelly :) We are staying at a hotel two blocks away from the beautiful Cathedral and Plaza de Armas, which has been the perpetual host to parades and celebrations since it is Semana Santa, or Holy Week.

Combi in Peru

On our second day in Trujillo, my gringo family and I got on a Combi and took the journey to Amber's house in La Esparanza, a suburb 20 minutes outside of Trujillo. A Combi is a privately-owned "mini-bus" (think old VW van) that transports passengers along specific routes. They are generally filled past capacity and it is not uncommon to see roosters, infants, and bags of produce overflowing from within. They are also more affordable than taxis and buses, generally costing less than 1 sole ($0.33) and a safer alternative to a taxi. Safer in the in sense that robberies are less common... the ride, on the other hand, is a whole other story. The Combis race from one street corner to the next, swerving in and out of "lanes" with passengers holding on for dear life (forget the concept of seatbelts or carseats here!). Sudden stops are to be expected as is speeding off before new passengers have got both feet into the vehicle!

After a safe arrival to La Esparanza, we met Amber's host family, who is absolutely wonderful! They take such good care of my sister. We met many aunts and cousins and enjoyed a huge lunch consisting of roasted chicken, rice, carrot & beet salad, choclo (huge corn = my favorite thing in Peru!), and Chicha Morada, a delcious juice made from Purple corn. It was truly one of my favorite meals I have had here. After hours of visiting, my Spanish skills were officially exhausted and we headed back to our hotel.

Trujillo is close to two major archaeological sites of pre-Columbian monuments: Chan Chan, the Chimu city considered to be the largest adobe city in the ancient world, and the temples of the Sun (the largest adobe pyramid in Peru) and Moon. We took a tour to Chan Chan which turned out to be a great photography experience, but not the best edcuational one. Unfortunately, our guide did not speak English very well and what he did speak, we could not understand. Therefore, I found myself standing close to the nearby children's fieldtrip which was conducted in Spanish and precisely at my Spanish level! :). From my fieldtrip, I learned that the city of Chan Chan covers an area of approximately 12.5 square miles and it is estimated that over 30,000 people lived in the city. The adobe city was built by the Chimor (the kingdom of the Chimú), a civilization which grew out of the earlier Moche civilization. The adobe city was such a drastic contrast from the bustling city of Trujillo, a mere 20 minutes away.

A favorite part to my arrival in Trujillo is being able to run again! You all know how much I love a good run. :) Given the knowledge from my prior blogs about Peruvian drivers, it's safe to say running on the streets is not the wisest idea. I did it my first day here, but after a few too many close encounters with taxis, I decided to look at Amber's gym. They offer spin classes, weights (thinking of you, Riley!) and have treadmills, so I decided to sign up for the remaining month I'm here.

First lesson learned at the gym: Bring a towel. There is a belief here that any sort of cold draft can cause a cold, so all the windows are closed and there is not a fan to be found. So, after 7 miles on the treadmill in 85+ degrees I'm pretty sure I looked like a wet dog, dripping profusely out of every pore. The same belief goes for cold beverages, therefore most bottled water is served at room temperature.

Second lesson learned while at the gym: Do not run on the treadmill during rush hour traffic. The treadmills are lined up against the front of the building with floor to ceiling glass directly in front of the machines. It literally feels like a museum display case with me, the sweaty Gringa, on exhibit for every passerby's pleasure. Three lanes of traffic were stopped for an average of 2 minutes per car directly in front of my treadmill. This meant 2 painfully long minutes of "running-man" imitations, blatant pointing, hysterical laughing, and many baffled stares. Needless to say, that was the longest run of my life. :)

Our week has been filled with more fun and there are many more stories to come... Thinking of you all!!

Things I take for granted in Alaska:

1.) Punctuality. Welcome to the world of waiting "solo diez o viente minutos"... 90 minutes later, we ate our lunch!
2.) A big, tall glass of delicious Alaskan tap water. Bottled Peruvian water just isn't the same!
3.) Toilet seats.
4.) Toilet paper. Never, ever go anywhere in Peru without TP.
5.) Toilets, period. Hole in the ground, anyone?
6.) Using car horns for emergency purposes only. (Here, it can mean: go, stop, watch out, I'm about to run a red light, so either move or get hit, hey gringo, you need a cab?, this traffic is ridiculous, so I'm going to honk and maybe it will move faster... It's more of a constant cacophony versus the occasional obnoxious honk.)
7.) Warm showers... Oh how I dream of a nice, steaming, hot shower!
8.) Clean clothes. Still wearing the same clothes I brought down to Peru. Thank goodness for Febreeze and a nice family who doesn't tell you if you really do smell! :)
9.) Dogs having owners. There are SO many strays here, it breaks my heart. I wish I could take them all home!
10.) This is definitely my number one... Being able to run outside. It's possible here, but it's more of an obstacle course: avoid crazy drivers, don't trip on the cobblestone streets(which we all know I've been known to do!), watch out for stray dogs, avoid the men shouting, "corre, gringa, corre!" (run, white girl, run!), oh such an adventure!!

Majestic Machu Picchu

Magnificent, spectacular, extraordinary, phenomenal... no words can even begin to describe the splendor of Machu Picchu. It was by far the most wonderful place I have ever been.

Early yesterday morning, we took the train from Ollantaytamba to Aguas Calientes. When the train arrived, we got on a bus and went up a steep switchback road overlooking the beautiful Urubamba River. The road climbed up to the entrance of the park. It was foggy and very mystical looking; like walking into Jurassic Park. We started up a steep trail through the jungle which led to one of many overlooks to the Inca ruins. The ruins were so pristine and perfect; absolutely awe-insiring!  To make the scenery even more incredible, llamas walked around us, posing just perfectly to be in the picture as the fog started to lift and the tall mountains appeared. It was unbelievable. We watched the fog lift, revealing mountains dropping deep into the valley below, cliffs so steep it makes your head spin, untouched ruins that beg to be explored, blues and greens that take your breath away. So surreal.

The day kept getting better- moment after moment of gorgeous, breathtaking views! It was so tranquil and peaceful; the world felt so quiet, as if time were standing still. What is amazing is that the ruins were only discovered in 1911, and at that time they were completely untouched. The city is one of the only sites that wasn't destroyed by the conquering Spaniards, which I am so grateful for. It was truly one of the most unforgettable days of my life.

"Sexy Woman" and Downhill Adventures!

The past two days we have spent enjoying the beautiful city of Cusco. The city is so full of history and culture, it is a challenge to drag yourself away at night to sleep. Yesterday we explored the Incan ruins called Saqsaywaman. At breakfast, with me not yet knowing our day's agenda, my dad said, "I'm really excited to go see 'sexy woman' (Saqsaywaman) today!" It gave us all a good laugh!

The Saqsaywaman ruins are on the mountains above Cusco and feature three-tiered defense walls made of limestone and volcanic rock. The structure was considered by some a fortress and to others, a place of worship. The stones used in the construction of the three terraces are said to be among the largest used in any building in prehispanic America. I was in awe of the precise placement of each stone! The stones are so closely spaced that not even a single piece of paper could fit between them. The largest stone is estimated to weigh between 128 to 200 TONS! It is truly a work of art!



Locals enjoying the Festival

One of the things I am learning very quickly about Peru is that every day is an adventure. After a wonderful tour of Saqsaywaman, we crammed into our small, beat-up, barely held together taxi and decided it was time for a delicious lunch in Cusco. The driver turns the key in the ignition and... nada. Let me just paint this picture: A mountain, a one-lane road leading down (with no guard rails, of course) buses, other cars, stray dogs, small children, and four gringos packed into a MUCH too small taxi that won't start. Quite the dilemma... but do not fear, Miguel, our driver is here! He quickly jumped out of the car and does a seven-point turn, in neutral, to move the car without hitting any other objects. Perfect, we are now facing down the mountain, in neutral, in a car that may or may not start. My dad jumps out to help push the car downward and once we strted rolling, he and the driver try to cram back in, nearly missing and/or losing a leg! Once rolling, the driver turned the key and voila! The car started! The best part was watching all of the locals' faces as we almost rolled off the mountain. Pure delight on their eyes, haha! We proceeded to head down to Cusco and enjoy an afternoon filled with more sightseeing!



Anniversary Festival

My favorite part of traveling is the spontaneity; the ability to change your schedule whenever you desire.  Our last day in Cusco we planned to see the museums, churches, and historical buildings.  As we walked down the steep hill from our hotel to the Plaza de Armas, we heard loud music, laughing, and cheering.  It turns out it was an anniversary festival!  (We couldn't figure out what anniversary was for, but as my sister says, Peruvians love to celebrate, so it didn't matter!)  There was a parade of dancers performing dances specific to their region of Cusco.  They were dressed in their beautiful native clothing with not a cloud in the sky (at 10,912 feet = very intense sun!).  It was such an amazing sight.  Vendors sold hats, umbrellas, ice cream, watermelon, and a frozen treat called Marcianos, which are flavored frozen cream sold in plastic baggies.  Children ran around, dancing to the music, their chins dripping with ice cream.  Meanwhile, my family stood in awe of all the photo opportunities (if you know my Dad, he was in heaven!).  I probably took 200 pictures alone.  It was a photographer's paradise and an amazing cultural experience. We did make it to a couple museums, but nothing compared to the festival!  

Pictures of the Sacred Valley

Pisac Ruins

An amazing view!

Awana Kancha Alpaca Farm

The Sacred Valley

After a restless night, we all woke up feeling horrible!  The altitude is definitely taking it's toll.  Raging headaches, nausea, body aches, trouble breathing... not fun! We didn't let that stop us from enjoying the beautiful day, instead we ventured to into the Sacred Valley to the quaint village of Pisac.  Pisac is situated on the bank of the Urubamba River in the middle of the Andes.  Red clay buildings are nestled alongside the river with the ancient Inca ruins of Pisac set high above. 

Every Sunday, there is famous market with vendors selling high quality handmade goods and fresh produce.  The locals wear their traditional hand-woven clothing and it is not uncommon to see small goats running about! The sun was shining with not a cloud to be seen.  Absolutely beautiful.  We spent hours browsing and taking pictures of the colorful market.&nbsp

Our day continued with a drive to the Pisac ruins.  The ruins are known for its small, intricately placed stones that fit perfectly together. The ancient craftsmanship rivals that of even the magnificent Machu Picchu.  It was breathtaking.  After another scary drive where we barely escaped head-on collisions with other cars, children and stray dogs... we arrived back in Cusco just in time for a beautiful sunset.  The days just keep getting better.  I hope all is well with you!

Simply BreathLESS!

Cusco, Peru:

A city with so much culture, history, and beauty. It was one of the two imperial capitals of the Americas at the start of the Spanish conquest. Cusco has been an area of conquest for centuries between the Spanish and Inca cultures.  The city itself still has a lot of Spanish influence with the quaint stone alleys and baroque churches. However, the villagers still wear their colorful Inca native dressings.

 Cusco is a stunning city that literally takes your breath away! Mainly because it is sits high in the mountains at 10,912 feet! Talk about short, shallow breaths. Whew! Immediately upon landing today, I could feel the effects! We walked up three flights of stairs and had to stop for rest in between. Altitude sickness, or soroche, is a big problem for tourists- it includes high fevers, shortness of breath, fatigue, tachycardia, headaches, and other horrible symptoms. Extreme altitude sickness can lead to pulmonary or cerebral edema! Unfortunately there is no way to prevent it, except for Peruvians sware by the infamous Mate de Coco. Hopefully it works for all of us.  I think we'll acclimatize in no time!

Amber and I in Cusco, Peru

Today we spent most of the day relaxing in our hotel, drinking Mate while looking out at the city. We walked around the city, enjoying the beautiful Plaza de Armas, or city square.  It was an overload of photo opportunities!  The cathedral, convent,  baroque buildings and the gorgeous native people were an amazing sight to see.  We ended the night with a delicious dinner at Pacha Papa (Translation: Potato of the Earth) where I had the most amazing quinoa and potato soup of my life.  Quinoa is considered a sacred grain to the Incans and is one of the most protein-rich grains in the world. I also learned that there are over 300 types of potatoes here! So far, the food has yet to disappoint me and I haven't gotten "Montezuma's Revenge." According to Amber, it will happen.  I'll just enjoy the food for now and hope I don't get sick!  

Lessons Learned in Lima...

Here are my lessons learned today:

1.) Riding in a car with a Peruvian driver = scary.  Crossing a street while trying to avoid being hit by a Peruvian driver= even scarier!

2.) Owls are a symbol of good luck here.  After explaining to my cab driver where I was from, he proceeded to ask if there were owls there.

3.) It is normal to have Guinea Pig for lunch. No big deal. (No, I could not bring myself to try it!)

4.) Be careful while running on cobblestone or you will trip and fall on your face.  (Yes, I did do this.)

5.) Peruvians LOVE mayonnaise. On just about everything! Care for a little mayo on your salad? No?!

6.) Catacombs are amazing! I had the opportunity to stand among 100,000 bodies with no barrier between myself and mass amounts of femurs, skulls, humerus bones, etc.

7.) A common remedy for almost everything is Mate de Coco, a delicious tea that is illegal in the United States. Come to find out it is actually made from cocaine leaves. I think I had four cups today! Don't worry, they say it's only 0.4% cocaine.

8.) Stop signs, crosswalks, traffic lights, and blinkers are more of a general suggestion than a law. (See number one for more information.)

9.) Inca Cola is the number one drink of choice here. Every store, stand, billboard advertises the neon yellow soda. To see what the fuss is about, I tried it today. It was essentially like liquid bubble gum. I think I'll stick to water for now!

10.) The sky in Lima can turn shades of pink, purple, red, and orange. We saw the most stunning sunset over the Plaza de Armas tonight. An amazing end to an amazing day!

An Adventure Begins...

36 hours passed, four plane rides taken, two books read, innumerable cups of tea consumed, and one broken rib later... I arrived in Peru!  I truly love to travel, but I vow to never travel again while injured.  Lifting a gigantic backpack was not fun!  I survived nonetheless and, with all considered, it was one of the most flawless trips I've ever made! I met my parents in the Miami Airport (yay!) and we continued on our adventure to the Lima airport. The sun was just coming up as we landed (for the second since leaving the Anchorage Airport!) and as the morning fog lifted, we were able to see amazing cliffs extending into the Pacific Ocean.  I had no idea how stunning Lima was going to be!

Cliffs of Lima

We spent most of the day exploring the city and scoping out activities to do with Amber after she arrives tomorrow.  I can't wait to see her!  Six months is entirely too long without my big sis.  After a day of walking, I pulled out my running shoes and ran along the beautiful coast. As much as I have loved running in the break-up slush of Anchorage, it was definitely the most breathtaking run I've had in a while!  If you know me, you know there is no better way to end a fabulous day than with a run.

We will spend one more day in Lima, then we are off to Cusco and Machu Picchu.  I am so blessed to be able to share this amazing experience with my family, and hopefully you can all enjoy my many adventures and stories in the next 6 weeks!